Missing you!

Monday, 27^th August

Days keep on passing by really quickly. A few weeks ago, however, time seemed to have stopped completely. I was suddenly feeling so homesick that I thought I’d never get over it. The feeling lasted for several days and made me ready to go to the airport and take the next flight back to Finland. I wasn’t prepared to experience those kinds of emotions, not this early anyway, since I thought I was as motivated for this journey as anyone could be. Well, eventually I got over the most powerful homesickness and have fully enjoyed my stay after that (Although hearing European/American music as I did last Saturday in a restaurant still brings too many memories into my mind and tears into my eyes…)

In Livingstone’s footsteps

A couple of weeks ago we (myself, Riikka and Mariska) spent a long weekend (from Friday to Monday) in Livingstone in southern Zambia just at the border of Zimbabwe. It was quite an experience, including 7 hours (one way, so 14 hours in total) in a bus entertained by gospel videos, Victoria Falls, old and new Zambian friends, partying, sunset at Zambezi River, crocodiles, baboons, the legendary Jollyboys backpackers’ lodge, true Zambian food and so on. I could write a long story of it, but I won’t this time.

Zim situation

Last time I promised to write something about the situation in Zimbabwe. When I compare the opinions and ideas written in Helsingin Sanomat (Finland’s leading newspaper) and in The Post (Zambian version), they look at Zimbabwe quite differently. Also local people here in Zambia, independent of their educational background, seem to have quite a different perception of Zimbabwe’s current politics and economy than do fellow Europeans. The comments that I’m going to write here are the opinions of Zambian, Zimbabwean and South African people that I’ve met and discussed the situation with. Thus, these must not be considered as my own opinions. I’m merely a neutral observer here, and since I have nothing to do with Zimbabwe, I don’t think I even need to have an opinion on its politics.

Here in Zambia, the situation in Zimbabwe is not considered very bad. In Finnish papers and magazines, a conflict and resignation of President Mugabe have been anticipated, but Zambians seem to think that what is written in the newspapers in Europe and America is merely Western propaganda. The Western countries have their own agenda for Zimbabwe and other African countries and so, they try to agitate conflicts in those countries in order to get them under their control. The president of Zimbabwe is a good fellow and is doing everything possible for his nation. At least his intentions have been good. He has been the leader of Zimbabwe for a long time and during his period the country has also had its days of glory. The Zimbabwean people leaving their homes and moving to neighboring countries every day should not be called refugees but immigrants since the situation in their home country is not truly threatening.

As my own observation, I can tell that the queue of Zimbabweans (at least some of them salespeople trying to do business in Zambia and them return to Zimbabwe, I guess) trying to get to Zambian side of the border in Livingstone is long.

On the other hand, some Zambians that have visited Zimbabwe recently have described the situation somewhat chaotic. There is said to be desperation among the Zimbabweans since not all of them are able to make ends meet anymore. For example, some taxi drivers may be quite aggressive in their attempts to charge visitors extra dollars (you are not given other options than to pay). Also some businesspeople importing goods from South Africa to Zambia via Zimbabwe had experienced that the trucks can get stuck in Zimbabwe for several days if they don’t agree to pay extra. Alternative routes don’t really exist, so they just need to cope with the situation.

Some Zimbabwean businessmen visiting Zambia denoted that the situation in Zimbabwe is not black and white. They acknowledged that there are people who are suffering (for example, there are families that no longer can afford AIDS medication) but added that there are also citizens who get along pretty well (including these businessmen themselves). When asked about the general opinion on Mugabe of Zimbabweans, they described there being two opinions: some are hoping for his resignation whereas some are very satisfied with his politics. Anyway, Zimbabweans don’t think there will be a conflict or a war.

Nourishment for the soul…

Last Saturday I went to a Seventh Day Adventists Church with my neighbor Ruth (a Zambian girl). What was different from Lutheran service was that there was much more singing and that the congregation really could sing beautifully in harmonies. The sermon was partly in bemba, nyanja and tonga, and was simultaneously translated into English. This week’s Sunday, I’ve been invited to a Roman Catholic service with another neighbor, Lawrence (or Kasongo, as his tribal name is). I’ve never been to a Roman Catholic Church before even in Finland, so it’ll surely be a nice experience. Religion is very important to Zambians and thus, the most common question that I’m asked after “Are you married” and “Do you have children” is “Do you go to church”. Luckily I don’t need to lie when telling I’m a Lutheran and can even answer some of their questions considering the religion.

…and for the body!

Kasongo promised we’ll cook a typical Zambian meal after church – I’m so much looking forward to that! Cooking local food is definitely one of the things that I would like to learn here and I’m already tired of admitting that I’m not even able to cook nshima yet (which is one of the easiest things to do in the world, as I’ve been told for soooo many times). I like Zambian food very much and am quite disappointed that Riikka doesn’t like to eat it too often. I’ve eaten local food only a few times, much more often we’ve eaten salads, wok, pasta, rice with sauce or pizza (not that I didn’t like those as well!). My favourite Zambian dishes so far are nshima with rape tops (cooked with tomato and onion), pumpkin leaves with peanuts and chicken in every form. I’m craving for more!

Every time that I eat the tops (those green leaves) of rape, pumpkin, sweet potato or other plants, I must wonder how we can throw those away in Finland! They are proper food and tasty as well, believe me! On the other hand, when I eat local food I must wonder where they’ve forgotten all the fresh raw vegetables. Zambians only eat vegetables cooked, and are not familiar with salads. Of course that’s somehow understandable considering the hygiene situation.

African time at KYPT

African time here in Zambia is both a blessing and a nuisance. Blessing in that sense that you don’t really need to hurry anywhere since no one is expecting you to come on time, and nuisance in that sense that it makes planning your life quite complicated. For example, if a lesson is supposed to begin at 8.00 in the morning, the first three students arrive at 8.15 and the rest of the twenty not until 9.00. Each one of those who come late, knock on the door (even if it’s always open) patiently until I say “come in, please”. After that, they greet me good morning/afternoon and as they have seated themselves they start complaining “Madam, madam, we are behind”. Seriously, it cannot be very surprising to you since you’ve decided to come to the lesson one hour after I’ve started with today’s topic. When this procedure is repeated 10 times during the lesson, I’m totally confused and don’t remember what I’ve already said and what I was supposed to say next. I’ve heard that even some of the teachers don’t always come to their lessons on time or at all, and that’s probably one reason why the conception of time at KYPT has become such as it is now.

I’ve been quite tough with the students. Even if we are in Africa and thus, should respect local culture, I’m convinced that time management is one of the most valuable skills I’m able to teach these youngsters. That’s why I’ve encouraged them to come on time and refused to tell the same things again even if majority of the class would arrive late. I’m keeping records of the students that are present at the lessons. I’ve also instructed them not to knock on the door or otherwise disturb the lesson if they come in late. They are still coming late, but let’s see if the situation changes during these months if I keep on being consistent with my demands.

There are of course those students that are always on time and behave like prime examples in every other way as well, and I’m feeling really bad for them since all my energy and attention seem to go to those who don’t behave themselves. I guess these are quite universal reflections among teachers, huh?

Pics

1) Mariska, Riikka and me at Jollyboys enjoying our Mosis. (Mosi-Oa-Tunya is the original name for Victoria Falls.)

2) The Victoria Falls.

3) Zimbabweans queuing to get to Zambia.

4) Sunset over Zambezi.

Some more pictures

1) That's Sable Road at about 18 hours (<- and that's the Zambian way of expressing what time it is). 2) There's the moon. I've become such a lunatic here, I've taken about 100 pictures of that cheese ball :)


3) Believe it or not, it's winter here. All the trees and bushes are blooming!


4) A lizard at KYPT yard. There are plenty of those here everywhere.

















5) Neighbourhood in Kabulonga. The current president of Zambia has lived in Kabulonga as well, or so I was told by a local taxi driver.

6) The swimming pool (and the sauna building) at Sable Road.

7) KYPT Restaurant. Sometimes you can buy food there, but most of the time they have nothing to offer. That's where I had nshima for the first time. As you can see, Zambians just love to paint on walls/cars/everything.

8) That's where I'm at right now.











P.S. I've discussed the economic and political situation in Zambia and Zimbabwe with local people. It has certainly been interesting! I'll give you my report on that next time!

P.P.S. We (me, Riikka, Mariska) are going to Livingstone on Friday next week. I really want to see the Vic Falls now that there's some water left. In October, when I'm going there again with Tuukka, it will be rather dry and pathetic :/ But no worries babes, I'm sure it'll still be the most wonderful journey ever :)

Surprise, you’re a teacher!

Wednesday, 25th July

My seven days in Lusaka have been full of adventures. You never know what happens – that’s the best and the worst of Zambia.

I had my first lesson (on entrepreneurship) on Wednesday, the 25th of July. I had just arrived from the Immigration Office, exhausted and without any notebooks or my laptop with me, as I was prepared to go back to the Immigration Office in a couple of hours. That’s when the hotel&catering teacher came to me and asked if I was going to have a lesson today. When I said that to my knowledge, I wasn’t going to have a lesson that day, he told me that a classroom full of students was waiting for me. What could I do? There I went, no time to be scared, and kept my first 1.5 hours lesson of entrepreneurship. Since that, I’ve been teaching every day. Besides entrepreneurship (which I wasn’t prepared to teach in the first place), I teach basic computer skills and business communication. I have eleven classes per week, each taking from 1 to 2.5 hours. In addition, I should give consultations to community groups (don’t ask me about that, it’s not clear to me, either) and participate to meetings and work in projects, whatever is needed.

Teaching is really demanding with all the planning of lessons and exams, assessing assignments, gathering material for spicing up the lessons, planning the timetables and so on. Especially when I don’t have any templates to apply for I haven’t taught these courses ever before: My first job here was to plan the curriculum of each course. Sometimes I’m really tired and stressed out. Our chief saw my timetable and noted that I had some free space there (as I had scheduled only the lessons, not all the administrative work) and suggested that we could add some work there… I feel hugely responsible for providing the students with accurate and appropriate knowledge and skills in order for them to cope with whatever comes in the future. The students are really sweet and enthusiastic, and my worst nightmare would be letting them down. I can’t believe that I came all the way to Africa to search my peace of mind and this is what I ended up into. I’m hoping I can loosen up a little as time goes by.

Commentators on the streets
I was prepared to hear a lot of comments on the streets because of my skin colour. I’d heard that I was probably going to be called a muzungu, Mary, my wife and so on, on a regular basis. However, the problem is not as big as I had anticipated. Especially here in Kabulonga, where I stay, I can walk on the streets almost in peace. I’ve noticed a clear connection between the socioeconomic status and the way the person behaves him/herself. The educated population is discrete, but the citizens with lower SES can be rather aggressive in their attemptions of gaining my attention. Anyway, the people shouting their comments to you don’t usually mean harm but just want your attention and perhaps have a chat and make friends.

The servant
At Riikka’s place, my “home” here in Lusaka, we have a servant – I guess you could call Wilson that. I don’t feel wholly comfortable with the situation. Wilson works at Riikka’s house three days a week and in other Finnish residents’ houses two days a week. He washes laundry, irons, does the dishes, cooks food, does it all, basically. He comes at 8 a.m., so you have to make sure you have some decent clothes on by that time. For example, this morning I was leaving for the Immigration Office not until 9 a.m., and it was somewhat uncomfortable to hang around in the house when he was trying to do his job there. On the other hand, I have to admit that when I came home from work, exhausted, it was nice to get warm and tasty n’shima and vegetable sauce á la Wilson.


Tuesday, 31st July

The party outfit
Last day of July, almost two weeks (= half a month, OMG) gone already! The African summer is only about to begin, I can’t wait! Today, I went to the tailor’s (Nancy) to design my traditional chitenge outfit for the Kitchen Party on Saturday. (Nancy complemented me for my hips – big hips are appreciated in Zambia J) Kitchen Party is a women’s party that is organized when a girl/woman is getting married. Something like polttarit in Finland, that is. The guests bring all kinds of kitchen equipment and textiles as gifts, and dancing and eating is naturally included to the party night.

It’s bananas, B-A-N-A-N-A-S!
Today we also ate fresh bananas from our own garden at Sable Road! Spectacular!

Lovable students of KYPT
Teaching is still such tough work… but rewarding as well. On one of my courses (business communication) for the automechanics students, I’m now teaching debating. I organized a brainstorming session today for the students to come up with topics to debate about. I was amazed about how smart and deep these youngsters are! The topics were just great, concerning gender differences, self-employment vs. working for someone else, the value of education etc. I obviously need to give them more chances to express themselves during the lessons!

Tomorrow, I’m going to meet my ‘Singing Class’ again. It’s the hotel & catering class in which, as I found out on our first lesson, everyone likes singing. They gave me a sample of that last time, and they are, in fact, very talented. I hope we could organize some kind of a concert for them some day. I’m sure they will play along!

The newspaper
Lately, I’ve been helping in the Community Voice Newspaper office by editing their upcoming issue. I’m loving it! I’m secretly planning on strategies of how to switch to their side and work full-time in the editorial office. They say I should become a journalist – I don’t think it’d be a bad idea J

African rhythms
Oh, I haven’t yet mentioned my latest hobby – African dancing! It’s great: we dance once a week at the KYPT school yard, with three drummers and plenty of audience. Gift, the KYPT secretary, teaches us. He also coordinates dancing and theatre activities to a bunch of kids (Children International is the organization, if I remember correctly – go and Google). The dancing consists basically of rocking your hips and stomping your feet, it’s really flirty and so much fun!

Finnish reggae in Zambia
Last Saturday, we had a farewell party for a Zambian reggae artist (Izaizai, perhaps) who is going back to Finland to his family. As I talked to him, I learned that he’s played with Soul Captain Band and Jukka Poika – go figure! If you took a look at my music collection that I’ve got with me here in Zambia, you’d find Soul Captain and Jukka Poika there. Actually, I’ve only got five CD:s (in mp3 format) of music here of which the two are by Izaizai’s bands – so talking about coincidences!

Pictures
1) Sable Road, my home street
2) Lumi the Cat at our swimming pool
3) Children International kids rehearsing at the KYPT school yard
4) One of the KYPT school buildings. That's were I'm teaching.
5) Children's acrobat group rehearsing at KYPT school yard